Wing tip construction IMPORTANT NOTE
please note that the notches on the riblets for the wingtips, parts# 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 are too large.
This is addressed in Bernard’s build log video 9
This means you should focus on aligning the tips of these with the adjacent ribs and do not insert them fully into the spars.
You will need to glue in a small (approx. 1-2mm) scrap between the back end of these parts and the top and bottom spars.

If you need any tips on remaking these riblets, let me know 😉

Happy hunting
Tim

In the centre wing panel there are 9 riblets part 1'. I could only find 8, - or perhaps I lost 1? Looks like I'm going to have to cut one.

Also note riblets R1d' on the dwg are actually labelled 1d' on the parts.

I found one riblet labelled 1c' but can't see it on the dwg. It has the same chord as riblet 2 on the middle panel, but the same depth as riblet 8 on that panel.

I'm in the very early stages on the wing centre panel. But there are some things I've noticed where on my T-Hunter I'm going to make some mods. You can take these as suggestions if you wish. I'll likely add to these as I progress.

1. The wing rear bolt hole is almost at the trailing edge where the rib thickness at the hole is quite thin after removing the recess in the rib for the ply washer. I'm going to move it forward ~25 mm which will triple the rib thickness at the rear hole. This means of course also moving F9 in the fuselage forward. The launch load on the rear hole is low relative to the front hole, but nevertheless no harm in providing more margin.

2. The wing bolt size provided IMO is overkill. I'm going to use M4. Don't use nylon BTW. You may know my experience with that bolt material.

3. There is a gap between the underside of the wing and F8 and F9 which hold the wing bolt blind nuts. This puts a bending moment and extra stress on F8, F9 and the joint in the fuselage sides. Fill the gap with hard balsa or ply glued to the top of F8 and F9.

On the centre wing panel riblet 1sp does not have a notch for the ply leading edge. Best to cut a notch before installing the riblet.

There are 2 centre wing panel ply LEs provided. I think only 1 is needed. At least the plan and the notch width in the ribs seem to only indicate 1.

Andy M wrote:

> I found one riblet labelled 1c' but can't see it on the dwg. It has the
> same chord as riblet 2 on the middle panel, but the same depth as riblet 8
> on that panel.

OK, Riblet 1c' is that on the centre panel under the sheeting between 1B and 1C. This also explains the missing riblet in the parts noted 1' on the plan. Became obvious when I got to putting it all together.

I'm working on the centre panel. Just installed riblet 1sp and mistakenly glued in a "1" riblet (as specified on the plan) on the other side of the centre stack of ribs 🤬 It doesn't have clearance for sheeting...🤬🤬

I'm getting really frustrated with the number of errors in this kit. I've watched the videos and I've been trying to keep up with the build logs, but holy smokes, this is awful.

Please tell me the centre panel is the only error-filled part of this kit! I'm ready to pitch it.

.

Morning!
I have finally cleared my work bench and I am now starting the T-Hunter build. I have been noting the deficiencies and have acted accordingly. I am going really slowly, dry fitting all the pieces together, then disassembling and commencing the actual build. Hopefully, this will help to eliminate too many errors!

It's not a great time of the year to be starting a build, imo! There's so much going on, holidays, outdoor maintenance/projects and oh, let's not forget flying! It's a great time to go flying!!! For these reasons, this will be a slow build and that's okay with me. I have decided not to rush this build and just enjoy the journey.

I read somewhere that only 60% of kits purchased, actually get built! it will be interesting to see the numbers for this build. I am encouraged by Tim Glover's success with his T-Hunter. He just has some sanding to do, covering, and finally the servo install and he will be most likely be first to maiden his T-Hunter! Yay!

Cheers!
Lyle

Here is a suggestion for sanding the V Tail to achieve a symmetrical airfoil. I used this method on the Bubble Dancer V and H Stabs and it worked a treat. You can achieve both an airfoil and a tapered section from root to tip with this method.

A Drela HT21 airfoil can be used as shown here:

The method is shown starting about 2/3 down this page: http://aviatorstudio.net/bdwithjig/bdw_fin.html

And starting about halfway down this page: http://aviatorstudio.net/bdwithjig/bdw_stab.html

I am nowhere near this stage yet, I've just got the wing midsection assembled before sanding. But am posting this as it may be useful for you more speedy builders.

Okay. So Adam posted on the T-Hunter thread on rcgroups about f10 & f11 not matching the plans at all and Bernard confirmed that the included parts were out-to-lunch and he would send replacements. I've followed up on this because I've reached that stage in the build as well.

I will post any news of the replacement formers when I hear same.

Edited Aug1/22: Bernard says he will cut the replacement parts this week.

Hi all,

I have mentioned to a couple of members that I was struggling with the canopy on the T-Hunter.
I just got off a call with Bernard who explained how it is intended to be built. Note that I emailed him and he called within 5 minutes to help me out.
Along with the clearly marked canopy sides, there are 3 other rectangular components:
A long piece with cutout with magnet slots on each end. Note that the cutouts can be left in place if room is not needed for larger batteries, etc.
A shorter piece with cutout and only the aft magnet slot
The shortest piece with no slots (this part is not identified)

The idea is to build a rectangular block with these 3 parts in such a way that the slots line up and the profile exceeds the profile of the side pieces
The side are then glued to this block, The magnets fitted as per the provided instructions on the drawing, and finally the block is shaped to fit the contour of the side pieces as well as the width of the fuse - yes, a lot of the side pieces will be sanded or planed off in final shaping - especially towards the front of the canopy - they are there mostly to provide the side profile
Bernard said he will provide either a video of this or detailed instructions to assist with this part of the build.

ISince I had already attempted another approach, I will build the canopy using the side pieces and some 1/4 stock instead of the supplied parts